It's a rare thing that a chef succeeds in both pleasing and challenging their diner with every dish they put out. But fear doesn't seem to faze Time Out's Chef of the Year, Clayton Wells. His intelligently conceived, thoughtful and deceptively complex plates of food amaze, educate and inspire us every time we go into his inaugural restaurant, Automata. He understands flavour in such a unique way that it's hard to compare him to any other head chef working in Sydney right now.
Wells has worked at some of the world's best restaurants – Quay, Tetsuya's and Viajante in London, not to mention a three-year stint as sous chef at Momofuku Seiōbo. He popped up at ACME and LuMi last year, but it was only when he opened Automata that we saw what Wells was really made of.
His opening menu broke all the rules, with the most memorable dish boasting what appeared to be just a plateful of dark green seaweed. It looked fascinating, but not appetising – Instagram be damned. Forking through it, though, we found tender steamed white hapuka fish, creamy cured roe emulsion (like a taramasalata) and little pops of native sea blight – umami, cream, crunch. It was one of the best dishes of this past year. Mid-year, we tried traditional Italian stracciatella di bufala dressed, deliciously, but very non-traditionally, in shellfish oil, and his latest menu sees raw scallop paired with its own cured roe that tastes like a seaweed-strewn beach – challenging, yes, but deeply evocative. On the same menu, a potentially polarising dish of celeriac and raw and fermented mushrooms feels so complete in its satisfying, savoury intensity that even the hardiest carnivore surely couldn't mourn the meat.